Many think of Iceland as one of the coldest countries. Coastal Iceland has a more moderate climate than most think. Michigan has colder winters. Toronto and New York have similar winter temperatures. In Iceland, the weather forecast for the next hour comes across as more misses than hits. You can experience four seasons in one day. With far fewer man-made structures, there is nowhere to hide from weather. Its unbelievable geology, together with the unpredictable weather, the biting-winds, the persistent rain and the cold, it is the place to feel the raw power of nature and its beauty first hand.
There is no need to rough it to endure without modern gears. High quality wind breakers and rain gears will keep you warm and dry. That, together with the high quality hiking gears, are what you need to enjoy Iceland. Many times in my two weeks, when I look around to find what people wear, they all wear hiking shoes. Hiker or not, a pair of comfortable and sturdy hiking shoes are a must in Iceland.
With the weather and the geology, Iceland is arguably the only place we paid more for the car insurance than the rental car alone. It was expensive. It was worth it, not only for the peace of mind, but for what can possibly happen. These protections are either sold as a bundle or as separate add-on. We purchased the full bundle. There are some special protections that are not commonly heard of. Fortunately our rental car did not run into any that needed the protection.
Grave protection covers damage to headlights and the windshield/body from rocks kicked up on unpaved or gravel paths. There are rocks almost everywhere, with the gusty winds and your car, the loose rocks can create damages.
Sand and Ash Protection covers catastrophic paint, glass, and body damage caused by volcanic sand and ash storms.
Door insurance covers damage when gale-force winds catch and bend or snap car doors. We ran into gusty winds exceeding 25 miles/hr during the South Coast Drive. Gale force could snap a car door. We were careful before opening the car door in the “gale force”: checked for anything before opening the door that the door could strike if the wind blew it open to the max, then opened the door very slowly.
Iceland is a must go for genuine nature lovers. Geologists could even regret not going earlier. I would remember for a very long time to hike in the highlands, to go down the inside of the volcano, the cave. And it is a once-in-a-life experience to stroll on the black sand (lava) Diamond beach, where the glacial lagoon, icebergs and glacier are on one side, crystal-like iceberg cubes washed ashore the beach and the Atlantic ocean waves on the other side.
I am glad I spent two weeks there and got a taste of its weather (to be continued).
Iceland is memorable in many unique ways. There are so many experiences to share, yet words and pictures alone can never fully capture them. I hope my next few posts will give you a taste of what we discovered—and perhaps inspire you to include some of them in your own journey.
Iceland has among the most diverse geologies, and the most beautiful natural formation. The world-famous Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon is otherworldy beautiful. I would never get tired of strolling on the black sand beach, picking up rocks of different colors or touching the freezingly cold glacial ice cubes, like diamonds on black sand. On one side of the Fellsfjara/Diamond Beach, there are glaciers and icebergs floating on the lagoon. On the other side, there is the Atlantic Ocean drumming. Iceland is the place to feel connected with the mighty nature and to feel deeply humbled.
The birth of Iceland was millions of years in the making. Iceland, now an island sitting alone in the North Atlantic Ocean, did not exist before. Hundreds of millions of years ago, there was one big landmass, Pangaea. Pangaea eventually drifted apart to become North America, Europe, and Asia. That actual separation and the creation of Iceland occurred through geological events over many millions years. There was the separation of supercontinent pangea into North America+Greenland tectonic plate and Eurasia. This tectonic rift opened up what is now the North Atlantic Ocean. As the continents drifted apart, a massive volcanic hotspot, a mantle plume, stayed deep beneath the ocean floor right along the rift. Over tens of millions of years, this hotspot spewed out immense amounts of lava. Eventually, so much volcanic rock (lava) piled up that it broke through the ocean’s surface to form the island of Iceland. Iceland was born directly on top of the crack where North America and Europe split. We visited the Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park, the only place on Earth where the Mid-Atlantic rift rose completely above sea level. It is surreal to walk directly along the Almannagjá fault of the rift.
Iceland by its name does not tell you about its abundance of volcanoes. Iceland has over a hundred volcanoes, to the extent that it does not describe individual volcanoes, but volcanic systems, 32 of them. The 2010 Eyjafjallajökull subglacial eruption sent such a massive ash plume into the atmosphere, causing the grounding of over 100,000 flights in Europe, and stranding around 10 millions travelers for nearly a week. Lava and black sand beaches are the reminders of these eruptions, as are the geothermal hot springs and the unique sulphur smell as we turn on the hot water tap. The Perlan museum showed an immersive video of volcano eruptions. The video got us inside the Þríhnúkagígur volcano and we ‘descended’ into the only accessible lava chamber on planet Earth.
Water takes many forms in Iceland. The Icelandic water, from the tap, tastes pure and delicious. The hot water, from the tap, smells like sulphur and it reminds us of the many volcanoes and geothermal hot springs everywhere. There are also glaciers. The gigantic Vatnajokull glacier, the largest in Europe, occupies 8% of the Iceland landmass.
Iceland by its name does not tell you about its abundant waterfalls. In most other places in the world, we make an effort to visit a particular waterfall. In Iceland, we surreptitiously found a few very beautiful waterfalls that are unnamed and unmapped. A search shows Iceland has an estimated 10,000+ waterfalls, most of them are unnamed and unmapped. I never got tired of finding another waterfall. Waterfall lovers can just go wandering.
I thought of Iceland as a big flat piece of land in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. In reality, the Central Highlands of Iceland make up an uninhabited, volcanic plateau covering about 40% of its landmass. We had one of the most scenic 3-hour hikes among the Landmannalaugar highlands with its colorful rocks painted by the different minerals: copper, sulphur, chloride, iron. It was a day of fine weather but we were told that the weather was severe a day ago with biting winds,downpours and likely frigid cold.
Iceland offers glaciers, volcanos, hot springs, waterfalls, the highlands and so much more. Many places can come across as we are on Mars, while many places have unparalleled beauty of nature.
There are more that you don’t often hear about (to be continued).
Iceland’s untouched natural wonders—glaciers, waterfalls, volcanoes, and colorful highlands—are the real attractions, making it an unparalleled destination. Iceland’s dramatic scenery can come with challenging landscapes and weather conditions. Some pre-trip preparation is desired, but not to the point of a fixed daily schedule, that sometimes takes away the joy of exploration.
We book a few things before the trip while leaving some daily details to ad-hoc arrangements. We first booked the flights arriving Iceland and departing Iceland, turning the travel wish list to a reality. With that and a rough sketch of regions to explore, we reserved accommodations. Iceland can be very expensive, but the stays are pretty reasonable if you take the time to find them ahead of time. We then reserved a 4WD SUV. Before the trip, we also booked a few guided tours (Volcano tour, Cave tour, highland tour) to visit places that are more complicated to explore alone.
The first week, we stayed in an airbnb in Reykjavik to ease into another time zone and use it as a hub to visit places in the proximity of the capital city. It is just a few minutes walk to the coastline. This airbnb is true to the spirit of airbnb home sharing, which I like. The host is a professor. There are shelves of non-fiction covering very interesting topics (e.g. Cosmology everything you need to know to master the subject in one book). The kitchen has everything for home cooking and some closets are half-filled, all the signs that the “professor” lives here from time to time. In the second week, we drove along the south coast, and had short stays in hotels or guest houses.
Travellers, me alike, often make the mistake of solely visiting the capital of a country. The capital of Iceland, Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland, has amazing Icelandic food, tourist landmarks and lovely souvenir shops. A local shared with us the Northern Lights display in the capital that we missed the night before. Overall Reykjavik is a lovely place and has a lot to offer, but you must spend more time outside of the capital to see its true character and the raw beauty of Iceland.
At a comfortable pace and some hiking, we explored some amazing attractions. Here is the post-trip 2-week itinerary that I feel good sharing. My favorite places are in bold. There is still half of Iceland for another trip.
Day 0 (Sep 1) – Arrive at Reykjavik: Pick up rental car, stock up at Costco, check in airbnb, explore the harbor front and Hallgrímskirkja area, and have dinner at Íslenski Barinn.
Day 1 (Sep 2) – Reykjavik: Morning jog along the coastline, lunch at Hlemmur Mathöll (Food Hall), and five hours exploring geological and aurora exhibits at Perlan Museum.
Day 2 (Sep 3) – Reykjavik Swimming: Walk around 101 Reykjavík and Old Harbor, lunch at Hlemmur Food Hall, relax at Sundhöllin pool, and shop.
Day 3 (Sep 4) – Highlands Excursion: Full-day guided excursion to Landmannalaugar in the Highlands, hiking colorful rhyolite mountains and soaking in geothermal hot springs.
Day 4 (Sep 5) – Cave & Lava Waterfall: Tour Víðgelmir lava cave and nearby Hraunfossar lava waterfalls; return to Reykjavík for dinner at Hlemmur Food Hall.
Day 5 (Sep 6) – Inside the Volcano tour: Hike lava fields and descend into the Thrihnukagigur volcano magma chamber; dinner at Old Iceland Restaurant in Reykjavík.
Day 6 (Sep 7) – Golden Circle: Tour Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, and Kerið crater, with lunch at Friðheimar tomato farm.
Day 7 (Sep 8) – Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Explore Kirkjufell mountain, coastal cliffs, and crater landscapes; search for Northern Lights back in Reykjavík.
Day 8 (Sep 9) – South Coast Waterfalls: Visit Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi waterfalls and hidden canyon; stay near Eyjafjallajökull. Stay at the Garage.
Day 9 (Sep 10) – Vík & Fimmvörðuháls: Visit Skógafoss waterfall, hike Fimmvörðuháls trail, explore Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara black sand beach, and drive toward Höfn. Stay 2 nights at Hotel Smyrlabjorg
Day 10 (Sep 11) – South East Coast: Watch glaciers, icebergs, ocean and seals at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach, visit Vestrahorn, and spot Northern Lights.
Day 11 (Sep 12) – Vatnajökull & Skaftafell: Visit Fjallsárlón glacier lagoon and hike to Svartifoss waterfall in Skaftafell National Park before driving to Selfoss. Stay at the Arctic Wind near Reykjavik.
Day 12 (Sep 13) – Blue Lagoon to Helsinki: Relax at the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa before taking an afternoon flight to Helsinki, Finland.
There are so many experiences I’d love to share, yet words and pictures can never fully capture them. In my next few posts, I will share what people don’t tell you about Iceland—and perhaps inspire your own journey.
Iceland’s untouched natural wonders—glaciers, waterfalls, volcanoes, and colorful highlands—are the attractions. It is the “Land of Fire and Ice”. I feel there are no other places on earth that offer such a geological diversity and beauty, not even close. But Iceland’s appeal goes beyond its landscape: It also ranks as the world’s second-happiest country in the World Happiness Report 2026.
Finland has been the world’s happiest country for the ninth consecutive year. It is a three and a half hours flight from Reykjavik, capital of Iceland, to Helsinkijcapital of Finland. It is the place to find out what makes people happy, to be inside the Arctic Circle, to visit Santa and the reindeers, and to catch a glimpse of Aurora. There are some observations about the happy nation.
Located south of Helsinki, the Baltic States, made up of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, offered cultural richness and medieval charm. The Baltic States are classified as North Europe not Eastern Europe. The pride in their hard-won independence from the Soviet Union, their wariness of Russia, and their support for Ukraine are evident in the Baltic capitals.
While every stop across Finland and the Baltic States brought something truly special to our month-long journey, Iceland’s dramatic natural wonders unquestionably stood apart as the ultimate highlight. Iceland will always hold a special place in our travel memories. This is the country that I plan to return to soon.
There are so many experiences I’d love to share, yet words and pictures alone can never fully capture them. I hope my next few posts will give you a taste of what we discovered—and perhaps inspire you to include some of them in your own journey.
Below is the month-long North Europe trip, with my favorite places in bold.
Day 0 (Sep 1) – Arrive at Reykjavik: Pick up rental car, stock up at Costco, check in airbnb, explore the harbor front and Hallgrímskirkja area, and have dinner at Íslenski Barinn.
Day 1 (Sep 2) – Reykjavik: Morning jog along the coastline, lunch at Hlemmur Mathöll (Food Hall), and five hours exploring geological and aurora exhibits at Perlan Museum.
Day 2 (Sep 3) – Reykjavik Swimming: Walk around 101 Reykjavík and Old Harbor, lunch at Hlemmur Food Hall, relax at Sundhöllin pool, and shop.
Day 3 (Sep 4) – Highlands Excursion: Full-day guided excursion to Landmannalaugar in the Highlands, hiking colorful rhyolite mountains and soaking in geothermal hot springs.
Day 4 (Sep 5) – Cave & Lava Waterfall: Tour Víðgelmir lava cave and nearby Hraunfossar lava waterfalls; return to Reykjavík for dinner at Hlemmur Food Hall.
Day 5 (Sep 6) – Inside the Volcano tour: Hike lava fields and descend into the Thrihnukagigur volcano magma chamber; dinner at Old Iceland Restaurant in Reykjavík.
Day 6 (Sep 7) – Golden Circle: Tour Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, and Kerið crater, with lunch at Friðheimar tomato farm.
Day 7 (Sep 8) – Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Explore Kirkjufell mountain, coastal cliffs, and crater landscapes; search for Northern Lights back in Reykjavík.
Day 8 (Sep 9) – South Coast Waterfalls: Visit Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi waterfalls and hidden canyon; stay near Eyjafjallajökull. Stay at the Garage.
Day 9 (Sep 10) – Vík & Fimmvörðuháls: Visit Skógafoss waterfall, hike Fimmvörðuháls trail, explore Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara black sand beach, and drive toward Höfn. Stay 2 nights at Hotel Smyrlabjorg
Day 10 (Sep 11) – South East Coast: Watch glaciers, icebergs, ocean and seals at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach, visit Vestrahorn, and spot Northern Lights.
Day 11 (Sep 12) – Vatnajökull & Skaftafell: Visit Fjallsárlón glacier lagoon and hike to Svartifoss waterfall in Skaftafell National Park before driving to Selfoss. Stay at the Arctic Wind near Reykjavik.
Day 12 (Sep 13) – Blue Lagoon to Helsinki: Relax at the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa before taking an afternoon flight to Helsinki, Finland.
Day 13 (Sep 14) – Arrive Helsinki: Rest and recover in Helsinki, visit Oodi Central Library, and explore local grocery markets and neighborhood cafes.
Day 14 (Sep 15) – Helsinki Sightseeing: Tour Helsinki Cathedral, Uspenski Cathedral, Rock Church, and Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, followed by dinner at Korea House.
Day 15 (Sep 16) – Arrive Rovaniemi & Luosto: Fly to Rovaniemi, drive autumn landscapes to Luosto, stay at Santa’s Hotel Aurora, eat reindeer dinner, and enjoy private sauna.
Day 16 (Sep 17) – Scenic Drive to Inari: Drive north through scenic autumn forests and lake views to Inari, spotting reindeers, and check into Wilderness Hotel Inari.
Day 17 (Sep 18) – Sámi Culture in Inari: Visit Siida Sámi Museum and outdoor trail to learn about indigenous culture; catch Northern Lights through clouds.
Day 18 (Sep 19) – Inari Relaxation: Enjoy a restful day at the resort in Inari with lakeside walks and a traditional Finnish sauna experience.
Day 19 (Sep 20) – Fell Hiking: Explore Saariselkä fell and hike up Kiilopää fell in Urho Kekkonen National Park for tundra views.
Day 20 (Sep 21) – Santa Claus Village: Drive to Rovaniemi, visit Santa Claus Village at the Arctic Circle, send postcards, return rental car, and fly to Helsinki.
Day 21 (Sep 22) – Arrive Tallinn: Take a 2-hour ferry to Estonia, check in to Airbnb in Tallinn, explore the medieval Old Town (Vanalinn), visit Raekoja Plats, and enjoy local treats at Maiasmokk cafe.
Day 22 (Sep 23) – Tallinn Sightseeing: Visit Fat Margaret tower, St. Mary Cathedral, and Onion Church; enjoy crispy pig leg lunch at Peppersack and coffee at Maiasmokk.
Day 23 (Sep 24) – Kadriorg & Seaplane Museum: Explore Kadriorg Park and Palace, have lunch at Kurze, and visit the Seaplane Museum in the afternoon.
Day 24 (Sep 25) – Bus to Riga: Take a 4-hour Lux Express bus from Tallinn to Riga, check into Airbnb, and enjoy a traditional dinner at Ala Pagras pub.
Day 25 (Sep 26) – Riga Architecture & Market: Stroll Riga’s old town and Art Nouveau architecture, visit the Occupation Museum and Central Market, and try Latvian set lunch.
Day 26 (Sep 27) – Riga Sunny Day: Enjoy sunny weather exploring Riga’s National Museum, Dom Cathedral, St. Peter’s Church, and charcoal-grilled turbot lunch.
Day 27 (Sep 28) – Bus to Vilnius: Take a 4-hour Lux Express bus to Vilnius, explore Pilies street, and hike up Gediminas Castle Tower for sunset.
Day 28 (Sep 29) – Vilnius Exploration: Visit the Gate of Dawn, Vilnius University, Užupis art area, Palace of the Grand Dukes, and celebrate birthday dinner at Džiaugsmas, a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Day 29 (Sep 30) – Departure: Early morning walk to Vilnius airport for flight back via Frankfurt.
Airbnb is often my choice of accommodation when I visit a new city for three or more nights. It offers more spaces, a kitchen, a washer, a smart TV. I always remember fondly those with a magnificent view or a beautiful garden.
Considering that Airbnb was officially founded 18 years ago in 2008, I was neither an early nor a late adopter of the concept. I like its concept of allowing hosts to rent out spare rooms, apartments or houses to visitors. It is part of the peer-to-peer sharing / gig economy. It has an environmental spirit of improved utilization of what we have. It takes some getting used to. Over the years, Airbnb has grown to a huge travel business. There is now more overlap between a hotel suite and an Airbnb. Most Airbnb hosts no longer live on the property. The hosts rent out the whole house/apartment. Sometimes it even comes across the hosts investing in the property and turning them into an Airbnb. I am very satisfied with Airbnb experiences, though I heard about scary ones that the host manages poorly.
I am about to leave for another trip, and will stay in a few Airbnbs. I came up with this list of Airbnb features, not in any particular order, that would elevate the guests’ experience.
Digital Lock is better than physical keys. While I had not lost the physical key or misplaced the key, it often worried me about losing the key or leaving the key inside the Airbnb. Recently, there are more Airbnb offering a digital lock. I no longer need to worry about the physical keys or the lockbox.
Kitchen stoves can be different across the globe. Some have safety locks to switch it on. Some need matches to ignite it. A simple one-pager how-to instruction would go a long way for the guests to self help themselves.
Often the checkout time for Airbnb is 10am or 11am. I think the host can automatically extend the checkout to a later time if there is no guest for another day. The check in time for Airbnb is typically 3pm or 4pm. Offering early check in is a gesture that does not cost much, if at all, for the guests to have a good first impression.
SmartTV is a means to show generosity. I often appreciate the generosity of the host to allow us to use his/her Netflix guest account on their SmartTV.
Tissues and toiletries are cheap. It irritates when there is only one bathroom paper roll, or half-full shampoo or conditioner or no kitchen paper towel. It irritates me more if a kitchen does not have detergents. These can all be addressed by ensuring a clear checklist for the cleaning team for ample supply of these cheap toiletries.
Most Airbnb kitchens are equipped with utensils, plates, and pots. Scissors are very useful and it goes a long way to add it to the kitchen staples.
Many Airbnb guests want to keep the place clean. A🧹 broom can help guests to help you to make the unit clean.
Weekly cleaning for guests staying over a week. I often find it interesting that we have to ask for an inter-stay cleaning service, even if we stay for over two weeks. It makes another act of generosity for hosts to offer weekly cleaning for the guests.
Many of the above is more about having a good checklist to have the unit ready for the guests. If you are an Airbnb host, these are small things that show that you care about the guest experiences.
New places usually rank higher on my travel list. But there are exceptions. Alaska is one of the very, very few places I would happily return to again and again.
My first Alaska trip was right after COVID. It was a 2-week trip. I wrote about the Alaskan experiences of a lifetime. This August I travelled back to Alaska. This time on a cruise.
This Alaska cruise was my second ever cruise. My first cruise experience was almost two decades ago. That was a 4-day Mexico cruise on Carnival Paradise departing from Los Angeles. I will always remember this only cruise I took with my late mother.
This Alaska cruise is the second leg of a college reunion to celebrate an anniversary. The first leg was a one-week road trip to Calgary and Banff. We are near retirement or already retired. From Sydney, Melbourne, Hong Kong, Vancouver, Seattle and the Bay Area, we met in Vancouver. We celebrated the anniversary with a sitdown dinner before the cruise and did a Zoom with other classmates who could not join in person. My spouse and I joined the reunion in this second leg, a round trip 7-day Dawes Glacier in Alaska from Vancouver, on Celebrity Solstice.
The cruise check-in process is similar to regular airport check-in. The different cruise companies are like the different airlines. There are a few differences. First, the cruise process is apparently more optimized. The cruise lines had arranged an explicit boarding time window spread throughout the day. There were way more support staff for cruise check-in from the moment you get to the cruise terminal. We dropped off the luggage within a minute or so. The lines moved fast. Second, at airport check-in and customs, the passengers often look busy and stressed; at the cruise check-in, the passengers look forward to getting on the cruise, relaxed and excited. Third, the cruise passengers are diverse in age and groups. There are family groups. There are youngsters. There are the seniors. There are reunion groups like us. The passengers on our cruise are respectful, open to small talk, and comfortable to be left on their own. Seemingly there are singles too for whom the cruise has arranged single-only activities.
Once onboard the ship, some went for the all-you-can-eat cafe right away. We explored the 15-story ship facilities, from the library, the pools, the gym, the spas and more. When we took the first cruise to Mexico, our room was tiny and without a window. This time, we booked a stateroom with a balcony. We could just chill on the balcony, read a book, or just do nothing and be mesmerized by the changing landscape. What an upgrade! There was no going back to the windowless inside room.
The Oceanview cafe is arguably the place we visited the most. We went there for morning coffees, for water, for all-you-can-eat meals or simply to find our group. The view, the setting, the food are all excellent. In the evening, it was sit down dinner where we selected our dishes. After a couple of days, we discovered that the sit down dinner was a waiter-served version of an “all-you-can-eat” meal too. (This album captures the delicious dishes we enjoyed at our reunion dinners. Fair warning—it may make your mouth water!)
We were excited about the beautiful landscape, glaciers, flora and fauna. But breakfast and dinner were often when the group came together, sharing stories and some good laughs. In many ways, these were the moments that made the reunion feel most like a reunion. I cannot remember every conversation, but I will remember the characters, the sharing, and simply being together. These are the moments I will savor the longest.
On the two sea days, we were well entertained with morning stretch sessions, the eloquent naturalist talks by Barb Lane, the mini-concerts and the salsa/chacha dancing lessons aside from the meals, pool time, gym time and sauna time.
On port days, we took excursions at each port, sometimes together and sometimes separately. It was as if the spirit of the reunion followed us—we kept running into each other even on days when we had chosen different excursions. It was hilarious to discover that two of us had somehow ended up in a random photo taken by another member of the group.
Ice Strait Point was our first port in Alaska. Off the ship, the first thing to do was to breathe in the ultra clean and fresh Alaskan air. The second activity was to walk in this last frontier. Ice Strait Point/Hoonah has very limited shopping opportunities. We joined a Whale Watching excursion which offered guaranteed whale watching. The sightings of bald eagle, orcas, a couple of Humpback Whales, and a raft of sea lions were highlights of the day. One orca swam across the bow of our boat. Its streamlined fin and body is otherworldly smooth and beautiful.
Skagway was our next port. Skagway was on the route of the Klondike Gold Rush, the historic 1896 gold rush region in Yukon, Canada. We joined the White Pass & Yukon Route scenic train excursion, to climb up to the White Pass Summit. While waiting, we met a couple who had taken the same tour seven years ago. The train ride was very scenic with lots of mountain and forestry landscape. Maybe we would be like that couple to take the train again years down the road. After the train, we strolled around downtown, visiting the Klondike Gold Rush National Park Service visitor center to learn more about the Gold Rush era. There was a Dewey Lakes trail system nearby, with some trails. We hiked the Lower Dewey Lake trail, a surprisingly strenuous uneven rocky trail at the beginning and then a more flattened trail along the lake. It was a short hike but not an easy one. The challenge facing the stampeders a century ago, before the train route, resonated loudly. These stampeders had to hike up the White Pass with more than a full load, in harsh weather, for days and months.
The most scenic journey happened on the way to Juneau, when the ship sailed through Endicott Arm towards the Dawes Glacier. The Endicott Arm is a stunning fjord, located just about 50 miles southeast of Juneau. Dawes Glacier is a 20-mile long active tidewater glacier. It is among the few glaciers that can be reached by cruise ships. We stood at the bow of the ship (i.e. the front row of the helipad area with no other passengers in front) for a very very long time. It was cold.There was so much to take in, the landscape, the water and the glacier, that we endured the coldness. The water kept changing color as we sailed towards the glacier, shifting from the ocean color to blue to turquoise to jade. At this crack of dawn, it was quiet, it was beautiful, it was otherworldly, just like Alaska.
Juneau, our third port, is the capital city of Alaska. Located just 30-minutes of drive from the port, Mendenhall Glacier, inside the Tongass National Forest, is easily accessible from land. Our Mendenhall Glacier excursion covered mostly the round-trip transportation with two hours on our own to spot salmon, take pictures of the glacier/waterfall and take some walks to vista point/Nugget Fall. Both Dawes Glacier and Mendellhall Glacier are within viewing distance but still very far away. If you are looking for a more up-close glacier experience, I have had a few memorable ones on other trips: trekking on Matanuska Glacier, cruising past 26 glaciers in Alaska, and visiting Moreno Glacier in Patagonia. Each offered a very different way of experiencing these magnificent landscapes.
Ketchikan made our last port. Right off the port, there are gift shops where the souvenirs have attractive pricing. We did some quick shopping before getting on to our Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary and Totem Park excursion. Rainforest is not what we usually expect of Alaska. With the annual heavier rainfall, the south east of Alaska has rainforest.The Rainforest Sanctuary, we visited, is at the border of the Tongass Forest, located only a short bus ride from the port. It is very lush with an abundance of moss and lichen, some occasional salmonberries. There are the graceful Western hemlock and the Sitka spruce. I will remember how the trees around a dead tree seem to root themselves in a way that prevents the dead tree from falling and potentially spreading disease. I also appreciate the little ecological nursery blocks that help nurture young trees. And then there is the naturally orderly landscape, all without any human intervention. Once again, I am reminded that nature takes care of itself, with or without us. The tour guide also took us to visit a totem pole builder. The builder is designing and carving a pole to memorialize his uncle. We were often led to believe that totem poles were religious, and interpret them as mysterious. But totem poles are not religious; they are more a form of emotional expression—a way to honor family, tell stories, and preserve memories. That fittingly concludes our last Alaskan excursion.
When asked about ideal travel, I had once said a change of scenery while sitting comfortably, sipping a cup of hot beverages. I will remember my two cruises for a very long time. Maybe my third cruise will be less than two decades away.
This reunion celebrated a 40th anniversary of friendship. I hope the next one will be much much less than four decades away.
The Channel Islands National Park, near Los Angeles, is sometimes described as the Galapagos of America. It comprises five islands, with Santa Cruz island, the one we visited, as the biggest. Each island is pretty unique. All of them are relatively rare in human footprints.
In spite of its proximity to LA, this Channel Islands National Park is not as much visited as other National Parks in California. Unlike most other National Parks, there are almost no amenities on the Channel Islands National Park. This island is unique in showing what nature would look like on an island without human interventions. Its inconvenience makes it less appealing for city dwellers.
Santa Cruz island is about 2 hours of boat ride from LA. The boat leaves on time. If you arrive at the LA pier on time, you will miss the boat. On our way to the Channel Islands, we were excited to see some dolphins. That was however nothing compared to what we saw on our way back (later). We saw quite a few oil rigs that I did not quite expect to be on the Californian coast. These oil rigs are huge.
Santa Cruz island greeted us with a very basic pier, an uncommercialized beach and a “local guide” to take us to the beach and also to where we would meet for the afternoon kayak tour. This island has no restaurants, no shops. The visitor center is self-service for those who collect passport stamps. There are a couple of toilets. The toilets are quite miserable and are to be used only when it is absolutely necessary. There are a few campsites with tents set up by seemingly scout troops.
We had a couple of hours to hike and did an afternoon kayak tour. The Potato Harbor and Cavern Point Loop are comfortable hikes. Along the trail, there is not much variety of fauna nor flora, other than some larger-than-usual ravens and a few smaller-than-usual foxes. It is a bit surprising given how “remote” the islands have been. On this cloudy day, Potato Harbor and the beach were in the mist. It made a quiet trail with few hikers.
The area we gathered for the kayak tour has simple structures as storage and coverage for the crew.There we met our kayak guide. After putting on the life vest and storing our belongings in simple wooden crates, we walked a few minutes, carrying the kayak paddle, to the beautiful beach. We did not have time to take a dip at the beach. The clear and warm water would make a comfortable swim and one might even swim with a seal cub. Just after I got onto our 2-person kayak, a seal cub showed his curious and cute little face just above the water. The Channel Islands have forests of kelps, edible for survival but certainly do not taste like the seasoned seaweeds in supermarkets. The kelps are strong, and can serve as an anchor, as we hold on to it while waiting or resting. We paddled along the island to a couple of sizable sea caves. These sea caves are naturally created by the surrounding ocean waves and are quite fun to explore using kayaks. According to the kayak guide, it takes 5 days to kayak around the islands. We can imagine the thrill of kayaking around the island in the ocean even though our stamina is better matched with this half-day kayaking. There are occasional choppy waves where it takes more diligent paddling to push ahead. From the kayak, we marvelled at the crystal-clear emerald green water, and explored some of the largest sea caves.
On our return boat ride, pods of dolphins leapt in and out of the water alongside us. Some dolphins came so close to our boat that we could see their true colors. From afar, they appeared almost black against the water. Up close their bodies revealed rich shades of brown. I had never seen hundreds of dolphins putting on such a spectacular show for so long. Watching them leap and glide around us, I felt the connection with these dolphins, feeling that they were escorting us back to LA.
The Channel Islands, the kayaking tour and the dolphin show made another memorable LA experience.
There are so many touristy attractions in Los Angeles. After many trips to LA, these tourist attractions are no longer attractive enough for a return trip. This June, we decided to visit the attractions less visited after attending the Rush concert there.
The Huntington Library, the Reagan Library are unique attractions in the LA area. They are independent research libraries. The public do not come here to read books. They visit the art galleries and beautiful gardens. In a way, these “Library” are a celebration and immortalization of the celebrities which the Library is named after. It reminds us of the legacy of the ultra powerful, like former presidents, and the ultra rich, like the railroad tycoons.
Located near Pasadena, the Huntington Library was founded in 1919 by railroad tycoon Henry E. Huntington and his wife, Arabella. It has been open to the public since 1929. The Library has gift shops, and a surprisingly good offering of eateries, including one that serves high tea in the middle of the garden areas. We were too late for the high tea. The collection of gardens are impressive. For half of the day, we visited the Chinese Garden, the Japanese Garden, and the Rose Garden, all aesthetically pleasing gardens each with a culturally representative landscape. There are other gardens too. Among these gardens are the indoor art galleries. The European art gallery made a good stop. These art galleries are not quite in the same league as the carefully curated arts found in world-renowned museums. They are still very impressive for a private collection over the years. It reflects what money can buy but maybe money still cannot buy time nor personal taste.
After the Huntington Library, I thought we had an idea of what was to be expected in a “Library”. I could not be more wrong when I got to the Reagan Library. Reagan Library is a presidential library, one that a former president can raise funds to establish. This is my first visit to a presidential library. Reagan, as a president, was not popular internationally, yet, he was considered as a great president in the States. He was powerful and commanding. Just reading about his life, and watching his recorded speeches, he was no doubt a very very charismatic leader. His narrow escape, from an assassination, remained miraculous. Reagan seemingly had a lot of influence on international politics, especially Gorbachev. The two were recognized very differently by their own country in the history books.
The Reagan Library is no doubt a place to celebrate his story. We particularly enjoyed having the internal view of the Oval Office, the menu and the toast when the president hosted the visiting head of the state/government. The state dinners, the diary, the gifts all are reflections of the international relationship at the time.
Like several memorials I have visited in the United States, the Library’s historical exhibits focus on what happened from an American perspective, and offer few insight into why events unfolded as they did. Without that context, it is difficult for Americans to know the different perspectives and then learn from the real lessons of history.
It is an engineering feat to move the Air Force One into the Reagan Library as an indoor exhibit. That plane has been retired and replaced by newer models. The plane was rather small, reminding us once again how lives have become more comfortable over time, just like the bed we sleep on is more comfortable than the beds of the royal families hundreds of years ago. Inside the Air Force One, there was no bed other than a couple of sofas. The media always accompanied the president, sat at a different section further away, allowing the president to “summon”. The plane also carried some motorcades.
Unlike the Huntington Library, the Reagan Library has only one cafe with rather plain offerings.
Both the Reagan Library and the Huntington Library are impressive “libraries”.
It was fun to visit the futuristic one-and-only-one Tesla diner in a mixed neighborhood of LA and the flagship Panda Inn, located at the very location of the very first Panda Express. Both are shining examples of unbelievable business successes. Yet, the Panda Express resonates more with its humble beginning and its successes remind us that there are hopes.
Amboseli National Park, the only Safari we visited on this trip, is a famous Safari. Amboseli National Park has more open plains than hiding places. It makes a good habitat for the African elephants and birds, but not so much for many animals who would rather have natural protections. On a clear day, the snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro is visible. We have seen the peak of Kilimanjaro, some herds of elephants 🐘, zebras, lion and lioness 🦁, wildebeests, hyenas, buffalos, hippopotamus, gazelles, antelope, impala, waterbuck, baboon, rock python and more. We had related Safari to mammals, and did not quite expect to see the beautiful birds. There were many: Crown Crane, Blue heron, Egret, Colorful Stork, Spoonbill, Blacksmith plover, saddle-billed stork and many others I could not name. Giraffes are less common, likely due to the flat plains. On the way to the Park and at the border of the Park, where there are taller bushes, we have seen a few giraffes 🦒.
African elephants are amazing animals. The adult elephants are huge yet gentle and graceful. They let the cattle egrets freely stand on their back. The egret and the elephant look surprisingly harmonious with each other. As elephants walk, their massive weight flushes out insects from the grass, giving the egret an easy meal. In spite of their weight, their strolls look slow, steady and effortless while covering distances effectively. They are not bothered by the jeeps parking on the road nor by the audience watching them, and simply mind their own business gracefully. The baby elephants are cute and walk close to the adults. I still have not figured out how the babies can catch up with the adult, but they do. The tour guide shares that the African elephants typically go through six sets of molar teeth in their lifetime. Each set lasts a few years. African elephants typically live to about 60 years of age. The final set lasts for roughly 20 to 30 years. When the last set of molars wears down, the elephant sadly faces starvation, which is a major cause of death in older elephants. Just watching the graceful elephants, the zebras, and the giraffes in nature is worthy of visiting the Safari.
Every Safari tourist loves spotting wild animals. As much as we love spotting a male lion, it has not been as chilling when all the Safari jeeps sped to the same spot on the bumpy roads once the jeep drivers got the news of a lion sighting from the radio. When these jeeps parked along the road, it started to feel like watching a lion in a zoo. In spite of its ferocity, the lion on the day was not huge. He walked fast and covered a good distance simply by strolling. When the lion wanders around to claim the territory, the lioness is the hunter. That lioness, we witnessed, lied low and waited patiently in the short grass for the two zebras, almost within striking distances. On that day, the zebras did not wander close enough for the lioness to attack and we avoided a bloody scene.
The movie “Lion King” has given hyenas a bad reputation. Their appearance has not helped. Hyenas just look hungry, wild and dirty. In actuality, hyenas are the “environmentalist” in the animal world. They are not picky in their diet and will finish cleaning up the leftovers. They are frugal and do not kill when there are leftovers available. On this trip, we saw these hyenas pretty closely. In that relationship between lion and hyena, on this trip, we witnessed, from afar, a hyena and a lion taking a nap in each other’s company.
We did not know about the wildebeest until this trip. The wildebeest, an African antelope, is such a unique animal that it should be more famous. It is a combination of many animals. The joke is that God runs out of the raw materials for the wildebeest, or that it was created using the leftovers from the other animals. It has the zebra stripes, the buffalo horn, the horse body, and the slender antelope legs. There are quite a few “confusion” (i.e. “herd”) in the park, and often they are accompanied by a couple of zebras. The wildebeest are herbivores and are gentle animals.
The diets tell more about the aggression than the size. Elephants, giraffes, zebras, wildebeests are gentle and graceful on their plant-based diet, while omnivorous or carnivorous animals come across as more dangerous. Regardless, our jeep, with a capacity of 6 to 8 passengers, is safe, and capable on the rather bumpy roads leading to and inside the park.
Safari makes the perfect place to see the diversity of the mammals and birds in nature.
On our last day in this Kenya trip, we were back to Nairobi before flying back to the US. We visited the National Museum of Kenya in Nairobi. I wish I had visited the museum before the Safari and had more visiting time, to understand more about the animals, the 1000 species of birds, the butterfly in addition to the unbelievable exhibits and the history of homo erectus.
The National Museum is a not-to-be-missed for any tourists in Nairobi or Safari visitors.
Unlike our travels in many other parts of the world, Africa felt different to us. We found comfort in leaving the logistics and guiding to those who know the land best. We never felt we had enough confidence to venture out entirely on our own—at least not yet. felt the confidence enough to venture out entirely on our own, at least not yet.
The vocational school HER Lab Kajiado, second chance for women 明天會更好 Many Kenyan women were married and had kids very early. They do not have a chance for education nor any means to make a living. The HER lab has the mission to offer a second chance for women.
We visited one of the HER lab initiatives, a vocational school within driving distance of Nairobi after visiting the boarding school inside of Kibera, the largest slum in Africa.
We were welcomed in the school with a flag raising ceremony and song singing in Helga. The kids were lovely and curious. Afterwards, we joined a group of Kenyan women in a room, listening to their stories. These Kenyan women committed no offence. They married young, raised kids at an age where their American equivalences are still in school. The second chance vocational school taught them vocational skills such as beading, tailoring, so they could make a living. It is not a stereotype, but some married Kenyan men desert their wife, take all the money with them and find other wives. With the training and the support, these women can earn some money and equally important, keep the money. Not only does it help them financially, it gives them confidence and self-esteem. Some women need to take care of young children during the day. To support them, the vocational center has set up facilities to take care of the children, while the women learn new skills. I am so humbled by the courage and strength of these women to break the mold.
The community school HER Lab West Pokot 自强自由之路 This other HER lab is located in West Pokot. We flew from Nairobi to Eldoret. West Pokot is about two to three hours of drive from Eldoret. Our hotel is located next to a rather upscale shopping mall. Overall Eldoret gives us a better impression than Nairobi.
Going from Eldoret to West Pokot, we passed through quite a number of small towns, heading towards the countryside where West Pokot is located.
The welcoming party was impressive to the point of overwhelming. There were like seven hundred people, singing and dancing. They found us and helped us put on a Massai collar and a Massai dress, while they were dancing and singing around us.
After the welcoming party, we toured the facilities, checking out the garden/farm. The girls take pride in their gardens where they grow vegetables and fruits for themselves, and we had tasted some of the produce in our lunch. They also attend the different workshops to learn practical life skills through electrical workshop, plumbing workshop, beading workshop, tailoring workshop, cosmetology, the media workshop and the computer workshop. This is a more established HER lab compared to the other HER lab Kajiado we visited before.
A few girls shared their experiences through their emotional speeches during lunch. It gave us some ideas on the kinds of effort the staff has put together to support the girls.
The HER Lab is not just for the girls, it also serves the community. In the afternoon, we were introduced to the community before joining an outdoor workshop “Know me by my Name: My Name, My Voice, my Power” for the women of different ages. The topic was about financial freedom. We sat in a circle, with two school-age girls as facilitators. The participants shared their experience about their saving habits, their businesses, and ways they would like to improve. I did not speak their languages, one girl translated. In spite of the language barrier, I felt their energy, their hope and their happiness for the future.
Three projects (Kibera, Kajiado, West Pokot) on three days. It is energizing to experience the rays of hopes from the girls and women.
