Budapest is a hidden gem with abundance of beauty and versatility. Many may not know where Budapest resides on the map. This is another reminder that quality and a well-known name often don’t go hand-in-hand.
Budapest is a 6-hour train ride from Prague. Prague and Budapest both have beautiful settings with a river snaking through the city, and bridges connecting the two sides of the city. Budapest is formed with Buda and Pest on either bank of the Danube River. The Danube River has been immortalized by The Blue Danube Waltz musical piece which casted a romantic spell to the cities on its path.
The principality of Hungary was established around 895 AD. Budapest, capital of Hungary, blends the historical past and the modern presence beautifully. The capital city comes across as underrated. It has the potential to attract more tourists, and play a bigger role on the world stage. Budapest has the making of a world-class city, with its history, vibrant community, central location and growing infrastructures.
Our airbnb was located on the 2nd floor of a building on Budapest’s major thoroughfare, Váci Utca. Its location could not be better. The unit is spacious, with a small kitchen. The building features a distinctive architectural design with residential units, in yellow paint, on the peripherals, enclosing a spacious central open area. It has a dated elevator on one side, and another non-functional creepy elevator on the other side of the complex. Some of the residential units have barred doors. With the number of units in the buildings, we were further intrigued that we did not run into many residents. The whole setting felt like a scene in a spy movie with actions happening in the central open area. We even had a power outage the first morning, due to the construction work of the city, that added another unexpected twist.
Budapest is another walkable city. The Chain bridge, connecting Buda and Pest, took us to the Buda side of the city. The square, made up of the Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion, is touristy for its obvious beauty and the many look-outs of the river Danube and the Parliament over on the Pest side. The Fisherman’s Bastion is a place that beautifies your photos with its castle-shaped monuments , the inner arch windows and the various overlooks. We settled in the cafe, to enjoy the view, before testing our feet to climb up hundreds of spiral steps to the tower of the Church.
You can pack a lot in one day in Budapest, or do little with no goals on another day. Budapest is a city to enjoy at a pace that fits you.
For a change in rhythm, we fit in a lot of things on the second day in the city.
We started the day with breakfast at the beautiful Cafe Gerbeaud. Cafe Gerbeaud has a storied history since its creation in 1858, a meeting in Paris that decided the cafe succession, a change of regimes, and then a return in 1984. The breakfast, pleasing to the eyes and palate, lived up to its history. Their sweets made wonderful edible souvenirs. We ended up getting a few boxes of Cognac Cherry bonbons. The Gderbeaud filled cat’s tongue chocolate would be another great souvenir choice.
The delightful breakfast gave us just the right fuel for our first stop of the day : Szechenyi Bath House. Széchenyi is one of the greatest statesmen in Hungary’s history, within Hungary he is still known to many as “the Greatest Hungarian” for his reforms. The Chain Bridge, an impressive dual-use bridge connecting Buda and Pest, was named after him. His name was particularly familiar, as its three syllables and letters could be disguised as a Chinese name in English. The Széchenyi bath house reminds me of the Turkish bath houses. The Széchenyi bath house has both indoor and outdoor swimming pools, whirlpools, indoor thermal pools and all kinds of spa in a Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance architecture. We dipped in pools and spas that are included in the tickets. I felt lighter, relaxed, with more clarity, on my way out. I ranked this among the top highlights in Budapest and highly recommended spending half a day in the bath house.
We loved supporting the business of Chinese dim sum and cuisines everywhere we visited. After the bath house experience, we had some time before the Parliament Tour. This local Chinese dim sum restaurant Taste of Canton gave us another delightful and above-expectation experience. We were impressed with the dim sum that was hand made by the talented wife of the owner.
Located along the Danube River Bank, the Parliament is visible everywhere. If the outside is magnificent, the interior design is dazzling with an unusual royal ambience, beautiful artwork and lots of gold (40 Kg of gold). Our reservation was a bit late, and thus we ended up following a Spanish tour of the Parliament, and could only grasp simple terms like “Thank you very much for the visit”. The language barrier did nothing to affect the interior magnificence.
A couple of hours before the Danube night cruise, we selected Costes from our list of fine dining restaurants for an early dinner. The restaurant design was pleasing to the eyes, the service was first class, the waitresses were endearing and elegant, the cuisines were charming to the eyes and the palates. It was a real hidden gem, not to mention, that in our odd hour dining, we were the only dining parties as if we had reserved the whole restaurant for ourselves. The Costes downtown restaurant, inside the Prestige hotel Budapest, is better than some established Michelin restaurants we have visited. I recommend it to everyone who visits Budapest, and wish that it would keep up its excellence.
The night cruise was an hour of floating along the Danube River. What a beautiful city as the bridges, the buildings light up in the dark! The most excitement came when the cruise offered a view of the Hungarian Parliament dancing in gold glitter and a reflecting image on Danube. We can totally imagine a cruise that just floats on the Danube with a sight of the Parliament for the whole hour; the tourists would still enjoy it. This Hungarian Parliament in Budapest easily occupies the top position as the most beautiful Parliament in the world, and I cannot think of a distant second. That concluded the busiest day we had in Budapest. We absolutely enjoyed it.
The busiest day was followed by another slower day at our own pace, and an evening Opera at the Hungarian Opera house.
Central Market Hall is a multi-storied farmer market, where you can check out groceries, meat, poultry, seafood, spices and bakeries. The paprika and honey are good choices for affordable and special gifts. There are quite a number of locals shopping here too. We enjoyed our stroll there, making it a nice place to visit for an hour or two, to learn more about the locals.
Outside of the New York Cafe, there was a sign to claim itself as “the most beautiful cafe in the world”. The cafe has over a hundred years of history, with architecture and sophisticated design reminiscent of the Renaissance style with beautiful marble columns and elegant chandeliers. We expected a long line but in the moments we arrived, the line was short. The live music added to its charm. To accommodate the many visitors, we felt there was effort to maximize its occupancy with a high density of tables. The waiters, waitresses and musicians were dutiful but came across as dispassionate. We saw one customer being declined on a request to change the table, and ended up walking out of the cafe. It was a worthy visit and the interior definitely lives up to the most beautiful cafe and the food is good. It was just a small pity that the “software” did not quite match up with the “hardware”.
The Hungarian Opera House takes the beauty of interior decoration to the next level. The best way to appreciate the Opera House is to watch an Opera inside. That was exactly what we did, and we paid about $25 per person to catch the Boris Gundov opera. The ticket, for the high quality opera in a world class Opera House, is almost ten times cheaper in Central Europe as compared to the US. We sighed about how little has been and will be done in the US to democratize arts and culture. While this opera has been performed a handful of times in New York, few in the US are familiar with the history of this Russian Czar Boris Godunov(1552 – 1605) and this famous opera that has been remade a few times. For the night, I had that feeling that the producers creatively injected new elements into the classic opera. In some scenes, there was a laptop, there was a guy wearing modern jeans, there was a mouse in a maze. That left a strange taste. Overall I enjoyed the stage, the opera and above all, the amazing Opera House. If you have more days in Budapest, please don’t miss watching an Opera inside the Opera House. Afterwards, we had dinner at this oldest restaurant in Budapest near our airbnb. It reminded us once again that history and quality did not always have a correlation.
Our last day in Budapest, we visited the Great Synagogue. The admission pricing is surprisingly steeper than the Opera House. I particularly like its history about how the Jews worked hard to integrate into the local Hungarian society, extended flexibility in the architecture of the Synagogue, and creatively raised funding by assigning numbers to pews and selling the seat.
From its beautiful cafes, the not-to-miss Bath House, to the most beautiful Parliament, the elegant Opera house, and the romantic river Danube, Budapest has so much to offer. Despite its myriad attractions, it’s a mystery why this city isn’t as renowned as Paris or London.
This concluded our Central Europe 2024. Check out the full itinerary at Let’s go travel Central Europe.
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