oliviatamccue

NYC does not have a signature itinerary to show you have been there. It attracts visitors from around the world. There are so many events and places that are tied to NYC, the Met Gala for fashion, the tennis US open, the wall street for finance, the Broadway for shows, the nobody-can-remember-every-station subways, the Central Park, the Washington Square, the bagels, and the list goes on and on. The “I 💖NY” sign says it all. At the same time, there are the smells of the homeless, the smell of the trash, the have-been-cleaned-up-but-still-dirty subways, the scary rodents. The stairs and the uneven grounds annoy me. Visiting NYC is to experience the contrast, the wealth gap, the diversity. NYC has a lot to offer, like it or not, I never run out of interesting things and places to visit every time in NYC. 

We went to NYC as a family some years ago, with the primary objective of visiting famous colleges in nearby Boston. We were last in NYC in the summer of 2019 to visit my eldest child who just moved to NYC after college, and conveniently went to watch the US open. After four pandemic years, our family of four were together in NYC this October. So much has changed. Now my spouse and I were the visitors, while our two children have become New Yorkers.

The first day, we strolled across the central park and SOHO. The CheeseBoat Georgian restaurant, near SOHO, served us a surprisingly good meal. We would definitely want to go back another day. There are many coffee shops in NYC, and the Spanish latte at the % Arabica is the drink of the drink. We had dinner at the COTE Korean steakhouse. COTE is a one-star Michelin restaurant. Its butcher’s feast is the signature ready-to-grill-in-front-of-you steak package. It has four different types of steak in different flavors. We worked our way from the most mild flavor to the Galbi steak. Together with other side dishes, it made a delicious, rich and fulfilling feast to celebrate my spouse’s birthday. It was a day of culinary enjoyment. 

The next day started with dim sum in ChinaTown. When we travel, we always make time to visit some Chinese restaurants to support their business. We arrived at the first Dim Sum Palace, but there was nobody inside, and the neighborhood was average. We thought it would be better to try another Dim Sum Place in ChinaTown and we enjoyed the meal. Our walk to the World Trade Center memorials helped burn some calories. The 911 museum was the only museum we visited on this trip. It did a comprehensive job to record the devastating losses of the day, but not quite enough to reflect. The US politicians continue to throw money to fight wars, sell weapons and adopt sanctions/isolations to deal with rival countries. Could there be a better and kinder tactic from the world’s only superpower?

After the 911 visit, we walked to take the free Staten Ferry ride, a free ride to enjoy the Manhattan landscape and the symbolic statue of liberty. It was a warm day with a clear and blue sky. On our way back from Staten Island to Manhattan South Ferry, we caught the sunset at the perfect moment. There are many beautiful things that are there for free, and this was yet another example.

On our third day, we wandered around the West Village, NYC, SOHO and NOHO (South and North of Houston). There are many affluent neighborhoods in NYC. The affluent West Village has a different vibe, less of a hustle and bustle that is often felt in the city. We visited the three lives and company bookstore to read some books. It was not a large bookstore, but we found books that were quite interesting. We strolled down Bleecker street and enjoyed our lunch at the Jack’s wife Freda restaurant. This restaurant has five locations in NYC and seemingly a hot spot for tourists and locals. It serves Mediterranean breakfast, lunch and dinner in one restaurant. We thoroughly enjoyed the fried Zucchini, the duck bacon and the Peri Peri chicken.

The Grove Court and the building in the Friends TV series at Bedford was nearby and we decided to take a photo shot. Have you pondered what brought Cappuccino to America? Cafe Reggio, opened in 1927, is the answer. The cafe is still in business. We enjoyed our cappuccino and latte in an outdoor casual seating. Located next to NYU, it made for a good meeting point for professors, students, and tourists. Down the street is Washington Square Park. I did not recall any park with so many benches and sitting areas for everyone. Washington Park is almost like an outpost of NYU which crosses over the SOHO and NOHO (South and North of Houston).  The Lafayette and Broadway streets are good streets for shoppers, with its shops, restaurants and coffee shops. The LeVain Bakery serves the richest chocolate chip cookies. The Lady M has  arguably the best crepe.  

We did not catch any broadway shows though we discovered the telecharge lottery draw for discounted show tickets. Instead, we enjoyed dinner time with our children at the COTE Korean steakhouse, the Hearth. The best of all dinners, without a doubt, has been the homemade dinner at our daughter’s place. The Hearth sets itself up as a fine dining restaurant. The size is fairly small. The dishes are healthy and delicious. The ambience is relaxing. It made a good choice for those who are willing to pay $$ for a light dinner.

NYC reminds us of the wealth gaps and opportunity gaps. It is a melting pot of all kinds. It is the place to be for young and up starters. My two children live in Queens and Manhattan respectively. A sizable chunk of their paycheck is spent on rental and the essentials. They complain that they do not have enough money. I’m proud they work hard to afford and live the NYC experience.

Quebec City is a picturesque city.  The Vieux-Quebec area (Old Quebec) is a must go. 

Our first visit to Old Quebec was in the late morning with the plan to start from near Rue du Petit Champlain and walk our way up to the Chateau Frontenac. The narrow streets, lined with cafes, restaurants, coffee shops and quaint shops, offered a lot for us to explore. Each street made an attraction on its own. We probably have repeated a few streets, and felt totally at ease of getting lost in the relaxing stroll. We felt a good vibe of art and culture. Lunch-time, we randomly picked a restaurant, along the street decorated with umbrellas above. Their onion soup, poutines and other dishes did not disappoint. It was as if there could be no bad restaurants in the area, only crowded and more crowded restaurants. The after-lunch coffee at La Maison Smith, a popular chain store in the area, tasted better than Starbuck coffee. There were a few hundred steps to climb to reach the Cap Diamant and more steps to reach the Chateau Frontenac. It was a good climb. We were tired but not exhausted. We could have made stops at coffee shops with mouth-watering bakeries, cafes, and ice cream (cream glacier) along the way. Uber was also convenient and cost less than 20 CAD between the more touristy areas. We ate at Chateau Frontenac for an early dinner. What could be more satisfying than the delicious dishes of mushroom ravioli, the goat cheese & spinach salad, the scallop and foie gras served at the magnificent Fairmont Chateau, alongside the sunset. It was also our daughter’s birthday. It felt perfect.

There is less crowd in the morning at Old Quebec. I started the next morning with the ferry ride from Quebec city to Levis. It was a 12-minute ferry ride. There was no need to fight the crowd. I could take as many pictures of Chateau Frontenac and Cap Diamant as I wish on the ferry. A quick disembarkation and embarkation, I was back to the same ferry heading back to Quebec city. Wandering around the street maze was more enjoyable in the early morning. If I were traveling alone, I could easily spend multiple days in Vieux-Quebec, starting the day on a ferry ride, wandering around the old town, checking out the arts and crafts, and then finding a quiet spot in a coffee shop to watch people and do some writing.

We joined a 90 minute cruise on the narrow channel of the Lawrence river to enjoy the Quebec City landscope. Most of the time, we were simply relaxing under the warm sun, on and off listening to the cruise guide telling some histories of the city. It was a nice way to learn more about the city. The cruise cost over 50 CAD, became rather expensive when compared to the 7.95 CAD round trip ferry ride between Quebec City and Levis. I would recommend fellow travelers to try the ferry ride.

Our airbnb was a few minutes from the Saint-Roch area. There are coffee shops, boutique shops, pubs and restaurants to hang out with friends. If you were around that area, it would be worth walking around.

Following  our cruise guide’s recommendation, we took the 20 minute Uber ride to visit Montmorency falls in the morning before we left Quebec City. Our cruise guide told us that Montmorency Falls is 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls. Wasn’t it impressive? We arrived at the top of the Falls. Looking down and looking across, it was not that tall. After some Google searches, we discovered the Yosemite falls in California were ten times taller. A concrete-made suspension bridge provided a unique view of the top of the waterfall. I walked non-stop across the bridge with my acrophobia. I did not have the heart to watch the waterfall. There are 487 well constructed steps built along the hill with multiple pavilions providing an abundance of vista points to watch the waterfall at different heights. There is also the option of a cable car that takes you to the top and back. There are trains and buses taking groups of tourists. Nature may not have granted the grandeur to Montmorency Falls. The infrastructure and effort to make the fall accessible have shown admirable human prowess. The Montmorency made a great stop outside Quebec City. 

Homelessness has become a global problem. It is a sad situation. In parks, on narrow alleys, or along main streets, we could find them. Quebec City is a beautiful city. It is safe. I recommend you stay in the bounds of the touristy areas. At night, it is more comfortable to spend time at  your hotels or airbnb.

Next on the itinerary: New York City

Canada is a beautiful country. The province of Quebec is the place to feel like in Europe while staying within the continent of North America. Three times the size of France, with French as the official language, I have more than once thought I was in Europe while visiting Montreal and especially in Quebec City. Adding in the artistic murals, the narrow alleys, the cobblestone streets, the little prince and the TinTin characters on display, Quebec feels more European than France. 

Montreal is a welcoming city with clean air and an easy metro/bus transportation system. This is the city that you can visit without much advanced planning. It is a family friendly city without the hustle and bustle of New York city.  There are also pubs, coffee places and gathering places for those who are interested in hanging out with others. In the three days we were there, we visited the idyllic Mount Royal Park, Notre Dame Basilica area, Old Port, Old Montreal, the Botanical Garden and even spared an early afternoon to enjoy a high tea at Cardinal Teahouse in the Mile End area.

Montreal Old Port is a nice place to visit any time of the day. We arrived in the early evening. The Ferris Wheel ride was a delightful ride to enjoy the old port in the most relaxing manner. The nearby Voiles en Voiles adventure park was already closed but the Urban Zipline was still in operation.  My daughter took up the zipline challenge. With some imagination, the zipline was a “mission impossible” experience as she zipped from a building, in the twilight, over the waterfront, amidst the exclamations of the tourists and locals on the ground. The old port and the surrounding area came alive at night, with many restaurants to choose from.

The Olympic Park and the Botanical Garden are next to each other.  At 165 meters high with a 45-degree angle, the Montréal Tower is the tallest inclined tower in the world. It towers over the Olympic stadium and its presence can be felt across from the Botanical Garden. We set out to visit the Botanical Garden to discover the amazing living plant sculptures, only to discover that the sculptures were no longer in exhibit. We were not too disappointed as the garden has such a beautiful landscape subdivided into mesmerizing oasis of China Garden, Japan Garden, Rose Garden. There were the night shows of the Garden of Light in the Botanical Garden with decorated lanterns in different shapes of lotus flowers, bees, butterflies. The night show was included in the day admission, and we highly recommended it. 

We have heard about the bagel debate between Montreal and New York City. The St-Viateur bagel has been in the bagel business since 1957. We ordered a bagel with cream cheese, and a “lox” bagel one morning. These Montreal bagels were really good. The bagel was very soft, and there was a thick layer of cream cheese. It turned out the cream cheese was less heavy than the American version. There is nothing to lose from trying food that is hot in a debate. 

Chinatown, more like an alley of Chinese restaurants within a short distance from the Notre Dame Basilica, was a pleasant surprise. On a Friday evening, the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown were pretty full. Many diners were not Chinese. They seemed to enjoy the food, didn’t mind the noise level, and made a lot of noise themselves. It had such a lively and modern vibe around the area. It made such a good model for other Chinatowns to be more inviting to people from all kinds of backgrounds.  Good job to Chinatown, Montreal.

We visited the Notre Dame Basilica, the arguably most popular site to visit in Old Montreal, just before we left the city. 

Montreal is the poutine capital of the world and don’t leave Montreal without trying it.

In the province of Quebec, Quebec City and Montreal are the most visited cities. How would the two cities compare? We would soon find out in the Quebec City Impressions.

Travel is an enjoyment. Traveling to new places with family makes the experience many times better.  Traveling to new cities with family celebrating birthdays in fine restaurants are moments to cherish for the lifetime. We traveled to Montreal, Quebec City and New York City to celebrate two birthdays.

Transportation
Montreal and NYC both have decent public transportation systems.  Quebec City is best explored by walking around. Uber rides are just a few clicks away in these cities, and they are relatively inexpensive.  VIA Rail Canada offers decent rides between Canadian Cities.  These trains are punctual in departure but tend to run behind on arrival, unlike the EuroRail.

Recommended Eateries
Montreal: There is no shortage of great restaurants, also try the “snack” such as poutines, crepes, St. Viateur bagels, local breakfast and La Maison Smith coffee in Quebec cities. We also recommend the Restaurant Bonaparte (reservation needed), Jardin Nelson restaurant, Cardinal Teahouse.

New York City: COTE Korean Steakhouse (Michelin 1-star, reservation needed), Georgian bistro Cheeseboat, Banana pudding at Magnolia Bakery, Chocolate chip cookies at Levain Bakery, Crepes cake at Lady M, Mediterranean brunch Jack’s wife freda.

Without a doubt, the best meal in this trip went to the home made dinner by our daughter serving us hot and healthy chicken pot pie and roasted eggplants.

Coming up next: Montreal