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Alaska – Denali Wilderness. Do you see animals? (Day 3)

There seemed to be a pattern in the weather so far in Alaska – our days started mostly with cloudy sky, and then the sky cleared up in the afternoon.  Showers were pretty common throughout the day.  Our backpack carried some layers of clothing, rain gear, mosquito repeller, hand sanitizer, some snack bars, and a bottle of tap water.

Denali National Park is a beautiful place of vastness and wilderness.  

With only one day to spare, we took the 6-hour Tundra bus tour to get deeper into the park.   

The bus driver gave us an overview of the landscape, as we drove the first few miles into the park.  There were wolves, grizzly bears, moose, caribou, dall sheep hidden behind the bushes and the shrubs.  In our role as tourists, we got excited every time someone spotted an animal.  Spotting animals needed some getting used to – how far were they? Which side to look at? What angle to look? What color to spot?  It was exciting to see one, and even more so, to take pictures to earn the bragging rights. It was frustrating when everyone saw the animal but you, and we missed the moose.  It still made the day as we spotted a couple of grizzly bears, quite a few caribou and scores of dall sheeps.  Our closest encounter was a grizzly bear, which strolled hundreds of feet towards our bus, and sat on the road in front of our bus for quite some time, before the sound of bus engines sent it back to the bushes. It had no fear of the bus nor the passengers in the bus; and gave us enough time to take pictures.  

WInnie the Pooh looks to be a grizzly bear. Behind its cute look, Grizzly bears are unpredictable and are often more dangerous and brutal than the black bears.  

Denali Peak, at an altitude over 20,000 feet, is so high up in the sky that its face often gets hidden in the clouds.  We saw its majestic faces a couple of times from afar, as the bus took us deep into the narrower gravel road of the park. 

As much as we appreciated the wilderness, the wildlife caught our attention more.  For the next few days, I got used to looking around and searching everywhere for wildlife.  That was such a contrast from watching the computer monitor all day long.

Our next stop was Chickaloon, where the Matanuska Glacier is.  We drove through miles and miles of wilderness, as we got hungrier and hungrier, with no restaurants, no fast food to be seen, no gas station nor grocery stores for food. We had to take a detour back to Talkeetna to get food.  The restaurants were again busy with an average wait of an hour, we got some halibut tacos from a food truck.  For the remainder of the trip, we were more prepared that the next food supply could be more than a couple of hours aways, and made sure that we filled our belly with whatever was available. 

Just as if it made up for not seeing a moose in Denali, we saw a female moose right next to our car along the way. The road to Chickaloon was winding.  We were rewarded with beautiful mountainous landscape. The Matanuska Glacier showed up first as a thin strip of ice glacier, then started to expand to show its magnitude.  That was where our ice trek tour would be the next day.

We stayed at a very beautiful cabin in the Sheep Mountain Lodge. which had a good long history in itself.  Years ago, the owner was a nurse and the place acted as a medical station for the neighborhood.  In this glacier view area,  the air was so fresh, the scenery was so inviting.  There was a helicopter right at the Lodge, getting ready to take tourists for a helicopter ride. With an award winning restaurant, it was yet another upgrade from Denali Park Village.   

We looked forward to breakfast and the chance to walk on the Matanuska glacier the next day.

Coming up Ice Trekking Tour (Day 4)

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Alaska Flightseeing – Ice Age? (Day 2)

Alaska is so vast, that flying is a practical means of transportation.  A much higher % of the population in Alaska knows how to fly than the lower states.  Our flightseeing tour included an air taxi tour of glaciers around Denali National Park, and then a landing on the glaciers.  Denali is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet above sea level.  It used to be remembered as Mckinley, now renamed with the indigenous term.  

At check-in, we were disappointed that the weather  was not good enough to get to Denali ranges nor glacier landing, they offered us a shorter flightseeing, a refund or a rebook.    We had a busy itinerary, and picked the shorter flightseeing and fair enough, they refunded half of the tour cost.  This was not the only time that the weather affected our flightseeing plan.

The air taxi was a very small plane, to accommodate 8 travellers.   Each seat was a window seat,  equipped with a heavy head-phone for the pilot to communicate with us in the one hour of flight.  The lady in front  of me did not seem to quite enjoy it, and her hand was holding tightly onto the window sill throughout.  Her husband went ahead to sit next to the pilot, busy talking to the pilot,  leaving his wife sitting by herself.  Behind us was a family of four, the two kids seemed to enjoy the few bumps during the ride, more so than the unparallelled beauty of nature.   The pilot did a good job throughout for a pretty stable ride, so the kids were only excited a few times.  

We first saw a myriad of narrow rivers down there, like some picasso impressions.  The river is muddy, due to the glacial till, aka the erosion of materials as the ice moved.  We saw forests of purple and green spruces, and we came to know later the purple was actually black spruces, killed by spruce beetles.  

Some 15 minutes into the air, we were surrounded by glaciers and mountains so close to us that we could see the waterfalls, the glacier tracks, the water amidst the glaciers (moving ices) that just looked like bluish crystals among the ices of pure white.  We also saw a few tents down there.  It felt like we were back to the ice ages. Even though we missed the glacier landing, I ran out of words to describe the beauty and the power of the glaciers.  This one-hour flightseeing features the most beautiful scenery and humbling experience I have ever experienced on a plane. If this is the only thing we did in Alaska, it would be a good trip by itself.  It is better to let the photos speak about the scenery.

After the flightseeing, we got some delicious Spinach bread from a food truck on the main street, and got some Birch syrup as a souvenir before leaving Talkeetna.  From Talkeetna to Denali, it was 2 and a half hours drive on a well-paved highway, with spruces lining the highway, and often a 360 degree view of mountain ranges.  It was mostly wilderness, until we got close to Denali.  We checked in to the Denali Park village, which was an upgrade from the Talkeetna inn the day before.   

Sitting in the Denali Park Village restaurant, enjoying food, chatting with the waitresses coming from afar to do a summer job, and some live music, life felt very good. 

Denali National Park awaited us (Day 3)

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Alaska – the wilderness, the nature and the fish (Day 1)

It has been a month since coming back from Alaska. My pixel phone was damaged during the salmon catching at the Kasilof river, and stayed in the Alaska time zone for another few weeks until it finally recovered itself.  

Writing about Alaska travel is a luxury when the covid-19 pandemic is still rampaging a good part of the world.  In Alaska, social distancing means that the Alaskans get out of their homes.  Such is the vastness and the wilderness of land in Alaska; and at the time of our travelling, most people hardly wear masks in restaurants.  

This trip has been made special not only because this made our first flight since the onset of the pandemic, but also the unusual effort put in to make it happen.  We can forgive Alaska being so much more expensive than the lower states, given its tourism is squeezed in mere three summer months.  Little did we know that many other Americans were thinking of travelling to Alaska at the same time as us; little did we understand the airline and rental challenges to resume the operations; little did we know about so many other things. 

Day 1 Arriving Anchorage

It was a direct flight between San Francisco and Anchorage, with less than 5 hours flight time.  Since we booked the air ticket, there were various types of changes by the airline.   We ended up with a 5:30am flight via Denver, and by the time we arrived in Anchorage, it was 10 hours later.  Denver was a busy and lively airport, everyone was wearing masks and business seemed to have resumed, there were long lines to get coffee, to get food, most restaurant tables were taken. 

The car rental business has been so hard hit by the pandemic, they have been forced to sell most of the fleet, and the resumption has been hindered by major shortages of chips that affect cars, computers, phones.   It was so bad that I even got a rental quote as $5000 dollars per day.  That was as crazy as it could get.   After thousands of clicks on the computer, and after seeing the message “sold out in all locations” hundreds of times,  we finally found a car rental from Dollar, which seemed to have merged with Hertz.  The rental was at a hefty price of over $300 per day.  With the reservation, we still worried about our rental – would the car show up?  There were lots of scary stories that renters had to wait for hours.  Fortunately, we were not among the scary stories.  The rental pick up was smooth, we took the smart move to join the express club to cut short our queuing time.  We got a Nissan Versa 2018 model, quite some miles on it already; the wear and tear was easy to see.  The car came with a CD player, it did not read our USB device, nor did it come with any smart auto setup.  In other times, it would be considered as a total rip-off; this time, we were happy to get going.  

The Internet has become as essential as electricity.  Our mobile plan works for 48 lower states, but not in Alaska, so we had to swing by a GCI store for a SIM card.     At dinner time, we learned good restaurants in Anchorage mean either a reservation or an hour of waiting. We fell back to minimizing our spend and filled our belly with KFC chickens.  That Nashville style KFC chicken was still pretty bad.   

Anchorage is a modest city beautifully surrounded by mountain ranges.  The mountains were no longer snow-capped, the unmelted snow painted interesting patterns over the mountains, which added variations to the ranges.  In our drive from Anchorage to Talkeetna, we were treated with the grandeur of the mountain ranges through and through. 

Talkeetna is a nice little town and has been a popular stop for climbers to the Denali range.  The main street is lined with restaurants, gift shops and galleries.   In Alaska standard, the main street can be considered as a busy place. We stayed in the Talkeetna Inn.  The inn has an unbeatable location, and a nice view of a flowing river.  The room was new, but quite costly in terms of what it offered.

Flightseeing awaited us the next day.  We went to bed at usual bedtime, when the sky was still very bright.

Coming up the otherworldly flightseeing.

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